Hot springs on São Miguel: Furnas, Caldeira Velha & Ferraria compared
São Miguel is a volcanic island — and nowhere do you feel it more pleasantly than while soaking in naturally hot water. But which of the hot springs is actually worth it? Guests ask us this all the time, and we have visited them all more than once. Here is our honest comparison of the big three: Furnas, Caldeira Velha and Ponta da Ferraria.
Ponta da Ferraria — a hot spring in the open sea
Let’s start with the most unusual one, which happens to be very close to Casa de Sonho: at Ferraria, a hot spring rises straight into the sea at the foot of a lava cliff. At low tide, the hot spring water mixes with the Atlantic into a warm bath in the open ocean — a feeling you’ll find in very few places on earth. Ropes and ladders help when the waves roll in.
Our tip: check the tide tables and swim within roughly one hour around low tide. At high tide the warmth disappears; in rough seas, stay out of the water altogether.
Caldeira Velha — a warm bath in the jungle
On the forested slopes of Fogo lies Caldeira Velha: several pools under tree ferns, fed by a warm waterfall — it feels like bathing in a rainforest. Which is exactly why it is the island’s most famous spot.
Our tips: book online in advance (entry is limited to time slots) and go early in the morning — the light is magical and you’ll share the pools with only a few people. Termas das Caldeiras near Ribeira Grande is quieter, though less spectacular.
Furnas — where the earth boils
Furnas is the island’s geothermal heart: fumaroles steam between the houses, the famous cozido stew is slow-cooked in the hot volcanic soil by the lake, and in Terra Nostra park you swim in the large, iron-rich thermal pool surrounded by centuries-old trees. The orange water stains light swimwear — bring an old set!
Furnas fills a whole day: park and pool in the morning, cozido for lunch, then the viewpoints above the lake.
Our verdict
- Most unique: Ferraria — hot seawater exists only here (and only at low tide)
- Most beautiful setting: Caldeira Velha — go early in the morning
- The biggest day out: Furnas with the park, the fumaroles and cozido
From Casa de Sonho, Ferraria is minutes away, Caldeira Velha a good half hour and Furnas about an hour — and in the evening the garden and the sunset are waiting. When is your Azores time?
Frank, Bärbel, Maren & Simon