Four seasons in one day: your plan B for São Miguel

There’s a phrase you hear again and again in the Azores: here you get four seasons in one day. It sounds like an excuse, but it’s pretty much accurate. Out in the middle of the Atlantic, weather moves through quickly — and moves on just as quickly.

The key thing to understand: rain here rarely means all-day rain. Looking out of the window at grey cloud in the morning and writing the day off is the classic mistake. Two hours later it’s often blue again.

The weather isn’t the same everywhere

São Miguel is mountainous, so the island has many small weather zones. A wall of cloud can be sitting on the crater rim at Sete Cidades while the sun is out down in Mosteiros — or the other way round. Just go somewhere else. When the west is closed in, the east is often open. A glance at the island’s webcams before you set off saves a lot of driving.

What’s actually better in the rain

The hot springs. Sitting in warm water while rain falls on the tree ferns beats blazing sunshine — and it’s far emptier. Which ones are worth it is in our post on the island’s hot springs.
The natural pools. It sounds mad, but it isn’t: you’re wet anyway, and when there’s a swell the rock pools are the safest place to swim. More on that in the post about swimming in Mosteiros.
Ponta Delgada. The market hall, small shops, cafés, a wander under the arcades — a rainy day in town is not a lost day.

And if it really does pour all day?

Then you stay put. We have a wood burner, a big dining table, books and enough room not to get on each other’s nerves. Firewood or briquettes are available at the supermarket. Outside it drums on the roof, inside it’s warm — and honestly, most guests tell us afterwards that this particular afternoon was the cosiest of their holiday.

So pack a light rain jacket and don’t plan your days too tightly. This island rewards people who can change plans.

Here you can see when the house is free.

Frank, Bärbel, Maren & Simon