Swimming in Mosteiros: the beach, the harbour and the rock pools

In August the question over morning coffee is always the same: where are we going in today? The advantage of staying in Mosteiros is that there are three answers, and all of them are five minutes from Casa de Sonho. Which one is right isn’t decided by the calendar — it’s decided by the Atlantic.

The beach at the edge of the village

Mosteiros has a sandy beach at the eastern end of the village — black, like almost everything here, and watched by lifeguards during the season. Changing rooms, toilets, parking and a café are all there. There are a few stones in the water, which is why we tell every guest the same thing: pack water shoes. With them you walk straight in; without them you tiptoe.

The fishing harbour

When there’s more movement out at sea, locals don’t head for the beach — they head for the fishing harbour. Behind the mole the water is far calmer. It’s the spot for anyone who just wants to swim a few lengths, and the most relaxed option with smaller children.

The piscinas naturais

Our favourites, though, are the natural rock pools. The ocean has ground them out of the lava over centuries, the water refreshes itself with every wave, and some have ladders leading in. It’s precisely when the sea is rough that they come into their own: the surf thunders against the rock all around you while you swim calmly inside the pool — and on clear days, among little fish. The Steve Sunset Bar sits right beside them, which pretty much settles the rest of your evening.

The evening belongs to the Ilhéus

Because after that comes the thing Mosteiros is famous for across the island: the rock needles of the Ilhéus dos Mosteiros, standing black against a burning sky. You can walk down to the water for it — or simply stay on the terrace and watch the sun drop behind them. Either is right.

One note, because it genuinely matters: the Atlantic is not a swimming pool. Watch the flags, stay off the smooth rocks when the swell is high, and don’t let children go to the water alone.

Here you can see when the house is free.

Frank, Bärbel, Maren & Simon